Today ends the Spring/Summer 2010 Fashion shows in Paris, bringing us the final results of the “must haves” to be wearing at the dawn of a new decade. Though my personal coverage was limited to New York I have been keeping updated with the collections though various websites and fashion outlets. From what I’ve noted, here are the upcoming trends for Spring and Summer 2010.

 

Designers are displaying shoulders that either minimize the frame of the body by protruding outward like those sharply seen at Vena Cava, or come close to baring then completely at shows like Zac Posen: whether they are exaggerated or naked you will notice them come Spring. Daria Werbowy opened Balmain’s collection in a Sergeant Pepper jacket with heavy fringe dangling from the shoulders. Brazilian Alexandre Herchocvitch designed shoulder pads that poofed out in a an honoray style of football jocks and their jerseys.

 

Shoulders remind us that the late Eighties remain the era of influence. Personally, I cannot understand why anyone would want to exude a time period of overindulgence during the state of our current financial market. Economists have argued that the mistakes that we made back then are haunting us now (I can only hope acid washed denim jackets with matching jeans are not lurking around the corner, though D&G seemed to have gotted this covered). However, since this is already the trend during these shaky times it comes at no surprise that designers want to stay within safe territory. Balenciaga re-invented 80’s street-wear with neon painted leather pants tucked into high top heels. American fashion King Ralph Lauren was one of the only designers who reminded us of a similar time in our history with a 30’s depression era display.

 

The economy must have inspired “waist not, want not” as the phrase for execution with high waist designs taking over the runway. Eifel Tower Pants flared out at Luca Luca, while belts were cinching above the hips at Chanel. Tim Hamilton produced a pair of skintight shorts that rose far above the bellybutton, being further supported by thin leather suspenders. The modern peasant dress’s that closed Chloé’s show were flowing from midriff down in layered chiffon.

 

Christian Dior doubled his high waist, short hemmed dresses with skin revealing sheer chiffon fabrics. Chiffon was in heavy supply as designers tempted underwear-as-outerwear styles to be worn freely outside the bedroom. Clinging sheath slip dresses were the sensation at Tibi’s romantic show, and lacey subtlety was accented on looks at Behnaz Sarafpour. Calvin Klein’s designs seemed comfy enough for bed, while Donna Karan’s fantastic finale was basically an embellished negligee. Oscar de la Renta’s black halter bustier held light ruffled floor length chiffon over a delicate lace bodice.

 

And what goes best with underwear? Nudes- coloring that is, like that seen at Marc Jacobs, whose last look was a sheer tattered dress with a skin colored leotard underneath. Basic hues were the palates of the season; with soft pale primaries, like the Easter colors seen at Burberry Prorsum and Alberta Ferreti, existing, though in sporadic amounts.

 

However, if you were to choose a splash of color for your wardrobe, be bright with Yellow. Chado Ralph Rucci, my personal favorite,presented a radiant raincoat that would make any girl wish

for grey skies. An oversized asymmetrical banana shade dress exposed one shoulder while  extending the other at Bottega Veneta. The sheer neckline mini with plissé yellow-bandaged  cutouts sewn over heather grey tulle rocked the runway at Yigal Azrouël. Fellow Israeli designer Elie Tahari finished with a  canary halter neck high high tied frock that will be perfect for a beach vacation getaway. Valentino opened his spring presentation with an adorable yellow deconstructed baby doll dress.

 

Deconstruction brought texture to the muted toned season. Viktor & Rolf, with pops of Eighties color mixed in with Grace Jones makeup/hair, hacked into thick chunks of tulle ball gowns revealing designs that looked rough around the edges. Pieces of burlap toned material hung loosely on chic stiff forms at Jil Sander. Comme des Garcons has always been the master of  deconstructed design and this season was no different (Ungaro’s disastrous designs seemed to have borrowed the heart concept which was popularized by Garcons). Versace’s bubble gum metallic chained bustier was shifted on the models frame giving the illusion that it was hanging slightly off the body with a matching high slit light cotton skirt: futuristic and to simply put it as, cool.

 

Though the Eighties have made a powerful comeback, we did catch glimpses of what may become popularized in the future: digital prints. This new tech design wave was seen at the always innovative Hussein Chalayan, the New York young favorites Proenza Schouler, the so-good-I-have-to-use-him-twice Chado Ralph Rucci, the English newbie Mary Katrantzou, the Academy Award Winning dresser Elie Saab and Alexander McQueen who had a few looks that were reminiscent of Balenciaga’s Spring 2008 line. Vivienne Tam flew up, up and way away with her butterfly inspired digital show by having the models carrying mini-HP computers as clutches (I don't think fashion is quite there yet).