I need to be honest. Saturday night I experienced something so moving and inspiraitonal tears began to stream down my face. I fully understand why fashion can be an art form. Though I have argued this point with professors and fellow peers in the past, I’ve never had personal accounts to back up my claim: until this moment. Chado Ralph Rucci presented the performance of New York Fashion Week that ended with a standing ovation by audience members such as Martha Stewart and Vogue’s Editor at Large André Leon Talley.  Other notable attendee’s were designer Rachel Roy, Amy Fine Collins, Iris Apfel, Vogue’s Hamish Bowles, Patrick McDonald and actress Keisha Whitaker.

Chado Ralph Rucci’s collections are the evolutionary process of building upon the silhouettes that the previous season conveyed; in a sense he is constantly creating an even more incredible line. The anatomy of the female body was on full display with shredded chiffon laddering up gowns representing narrow bone structure. A focus was set on sheer cutouts in lightweight fabrics peeking at the skin. Air was the objective element with delicate hems pushing out and above as if a breeze blew by.

The Japanese tea preparation Chado is ceremonious in the Land of the Rising Sun. Japan has been a major influence on Ralph Rucci’s work since he added the term to his company name in 1994. A vanilla crepe dress was supplemented with an asymmetrical off of the shoulder silk shrug enriched with golden embroideries on enlarged cuffs. Spot on, was a citrus meticulously back-tied gown with a raised feathered hem. This technique exposed a second layer of silk that presented minimal painted details of a Japanese teahouse, creating the effect that a kimono was constructed underneath. A black and gold checkered obi-belt, with matching cape, cinched the waist of a dark halter dress with a slit revealing a gold sequined slip. As models drifted along their reflections shined brightly against the black lacquer medium, as if strolling through a Japanese water garden.

As homage to the late choreographer Pina Bausch, Ralph Rucci screen-printed individual photographs from selected performances.  In particular, a dark crisscross backed dress was the unique canvas for frozen pale pictures.  An image of a ruby red rose was printed on a strapless chiffon tent dress that the model exaggerated with a vibrant boa wrapped around her neck. Rucci combined his central themes with a pale screen-printed Kabuki mask on an airy sheer chiffon caftan, delicately set over high wasted white pants. Overall, it was an unforgettable collection. I cannot wait to see how the master Ralph Rucci and his line will evolve in his next season!

Directly after, still in a state of Rucci awe, I walked the few short steps to the tent next door where the Vivienne Tam collection was being shown. Last month was the forty-year anniversary of the rock concert Woodstock. This late 60’s early 70’s theme had flown onto Tam’s runway in a symbolic form of the butterfly.

Butterflies were constantly present while being wrapped in cocoons of suede jackets, trousers and belts. Sequined architectural butterfly appliqués burst from a black strapless tunic while others were printed onto fabrics of chiffon and silk. A baby blue suede dress sewn together with butterfly shapes was the selling point being both innovative and amusing. I briefly recalled the Alexander McQueen Spring 2008 collection that had several iconic hippie inspired butterfly dresses.

Oversized suede bags, with added strips of suede dangling off of them, were carted across the chest and held snuggly to the body. A specific type of “clutch” was carried by a number of models, that of the new HP Vivienne Tam digital computer. Printed on the mini-computer covers were images of…you guessed it, butterflies. This was a very literal way to bridge the classic hippie image with modern times (though I can not see Hendrix being on Facebook). Literal messages (email messages?) seemed to be what Tam was trying to convey, which con possibly be a nice break during a week of shows that have complex themes.

Model Holds HP Vivienne Tam "Clutch"

Notable attendees included: singer Estelle, Emma Snowdon-Jones, Tracy Stern, New York Housewife Alex McCord, Richie Rich, new 90210 actress Jessica Stroup, 

Additional photographs from Chado Ralph Rucci:

André Leon Talley smiles while looking on

Photographs Taken by Zev Eisenberg